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Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello Blue Skies!
How to Build A Chembuster to Disperse Chemtrails
Written by Don Croft <email@example.com>
Definition of a contrail: A contrail occurs when a plane travels at a high altitude (about 30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air into a water vapor or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing tips pushing through the air. This trail disappears after anywhere from a few seconds to 15 minutes, as the water vapor evaporates.
Definition of a chemtrail: The term "chemtrail" is a relatively new word, which appeared in the last few years along with the appearance of chemtrails. A chemtrail is very different from a contrail. At first a chemtrail might look a bit like a contrail. However, instead of disappearing like a contrail does, a chemtrail just keeps spreading out and forming a hazy cloud bankout and forming a hazy cloud bank These trails traverse the whole sky and stay for up to around five or even eight hours. . .
They have been known to turn what was originally a clear blue sky into a grey haze. (Note: As of Nov 2001 there are already several dozen Chembusters in seven countries, so if you see chemtrails that don't last anywhere near this long, there may already be a Chembuster in the area). It is believed chemtrails are composed at least in part by an oil based substance of unknown content that is actually being sprayed from jets on populated areas. It has also been found that some chemtrails contain red blood cells, aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses and other unknown biological components. There are many reports of increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments, in areas where there are chemtrails.
Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no markings. Sometimes you will see these planes give off no contrail at all, and immediately after the same kind of plane in the same area will start to leave a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct short gaps in chemtrails have been photographed, as though the plane ran out of chemicals and then had to start spraying with a new supply.
For information on Chemtrails see the sites listed at http://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm
History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not correctly "drained off". This "draining off" of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1. Connecting the Cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2. Connecting the Cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy-to-build device that consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The “Chembuster” is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build one for about $150.
Join The Battle - Now!
It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person cannot change the things that are happening to our country. You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from the unit. If used with Slim Spurling’s environmental tools, and a few extra crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The Chembuster cannot do any damage. It can only help and heal. It’s up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details
Set pipes in bottom spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished Chembuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a ½” screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!
PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid.