By Ken Adachi, Editor
Jan. 28, 2002
Below, I have reposted the complete text and diagrams of a paper titled
" The Freedom Reclamation Project" which was recently faxed (Jan. 7, 2002)
to list owner Geoff Egel of Energy 2000 (<email@example.com>),
a chat list devoted to free energy ideas. The author who assembled this
paper wishes to remain anonymous, but whoever he is, we all owe him our
gratitude. Whoever you are, Thank you very much. You are a true
light worker and champion of humanity.
To help speed up your orientation and understanding of what's explained
in the paper, I'll give the reader a brief overview of how the system
works first and will later add a parts list, telling you where you can
obtain the needed parts. I realize that it's easy for those with a background
in electronics to build the controller circuit, but not so easy for non
techies. With that in mind, I'll probably assemble a ready made kit which
will include the controller circuit, and perhaps the reaction chamber,
the dash gauges, etc. to simplify running around on your part. If you have
the ability and time though, the necessary info is included in this paper
to assemble everything yourself.
Introduction & Overview
This WaterFuel system is adapted to an ordinary internal combustion
engine found in most cars. Rather than use vaporized gasoline as the fuel,
this system uses a hydrogen/oxygen gas mixture (along with some water vapor)
which is ignited in the engine's combustion chamber in the same way that
gasoline vapor is ignited. According to this paper, water stores more latent
energy than gasoline, so you can get expect better performance, better
mileage, and zero pollution using water as a fuel. It is not necessary
to dismantle your car's existing gasoline fuel system. You can leave everything
in place and use your gasoline when and if you find it necessary. The parts
required to build this WaterFuel system are not very expensive and can
be readily obtained from off the shelf suppliers.
Since you are now using water as a fuel, you need a Water Tank
to hold it and enough tubing to deliver it to the Reaction Chamber located under the hood (bonnet for Aussie, UK readers). The Reaction Chamber
contains two stainless steel cylinders, one nested inside the other. The
gap between these two cylinders must be between 1-5 mm, with a 1 mm gap
producing the best results. These two cylinders are functioning as two
electrodes which "vibrate" under the influence of the electronic pulse
signal coming from the Controller. The particular frequency and
special shape of this electronic pulsewill break the water down
into hydrogen and oxygen gases. The gas mixture is then delivered to the
carburetor where it enters the combustion chamber within the cylinder and
explodes just like gasoline.
You need a few Monitoring Gauges mounted to the dashboard area
of your car to tell you 1.) the level of water in the Water Tank and 2.)
the level of water in your Reaction Chamber. You need another gauge to
tell you 3.) the temperature of the cylinder heads and you should
have a dash gauge to tell you 4.) the pressure inside the Reaction Chamber.
You'll need to install a variable control device (10 k ohm potentiometer)
to the existing accelerator pedal or install a second accelerator pedal
for this control mechanism. This accelerator control is connected to the
Controller box and allows you to vary the width of the pulse going to the stainless
steel electrodes inside the Reaction Chamber. By 'widening' the width of
the electronic pulse, the electrodes can produce more hydrogen/oxygen gas
which in turn will allow the car to go faster when the accelerator pedal
is pushed down. To start the process, you need an on/off switch mounted
on the dash to send battery power to the Controller to start the Reaction
Chamber producing the hydrogen/oxygen gas mixture. Once the gas pressure
inside the Reaction Chamber gets up to 30 pounds per square inch, you can
turn on the ignition key and crank the engine to start it.
For safety, you need to install a safety relief valve in the
Reaction Chamber in case the pressure within the chamber exceeds the upper
specified limit of 75 pounds per square inch (psi.). To prevent rusting,
the cylinders, the piston heads, the exhaust system piping, and the valves
need to made rust proof. You replace the existing valves and the existing
exhaust system with stainless steel and coat the inside of the cylinders
and the piston heads with ceramic to prevent the water vapor from rusting
the iron. To prevent a flashback explosion in the Reaction Chamber from
the carb/intake manifold/cylinder combustion area, you need a Flashback
Arrestor made of copper mesh connected to the flexible stainless steel
tubing going from the Reaction Chamber into the carburetor .
If your engine develops knock, you can install an optional donut shaped
stainless steel coil around the electrode cylinders inside the Reaction
Chamber along with an extra controller circuit called a Prahydogen
That's about it in a nut shell.
After you read through the paper a couple of times, you'll see how the
system goes together and understand the process with greater clarity. This
is a rather easy project to construct, so don't sit on your hands. You
can do it. After building this system for your car, you can also consider
other uses for your hydrogen/oxygen gas mixture which you can now produce
in unlimited quantities. How about using it for heating water? Or your
house? Or run an electric generator? Or your boat's outboard motor?
Get the idea?
The Freedom Reclamation Project
CONVERT YOUR ENGINE TO BURN HYDROGEN AND
VAPOR FROM WATER ON DEMAND + POLLUTION-FREE
ZPV: ZERO POLLUTON VEHICLE
VIRTUALLY FREE ENERGY
FREEDOM FROM GA$OLINE
SIMPLE AND INEXPENSIVE CONVERSION
ON DEMAND' VAPOR RATE (i.e. THROTTLE )
EAST TO FOLLOW DO-IT-YOURSELF PLANS
HELP CLEAN THE AIR WHILE YOU SAVE MONEY
RUN YOUR CAR / TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC) ON TAP WATER!
Are you fed up with ga$oline price$ and
Would you like to do something about it
besides complain and wait?
Are you still CHOKING on the whole idea
of fossil fuel CON$UMPTION? WHY?
Wouldn't you like to free yourself from
centrally-controlled or imported fuel?
Do you have a 2nd vehicle you don't use
Now there is something we can actually do
about it, as individuals willing to help clean the environment, and travel
at lower cost to both you and your environment. Do-it-yourself plans allow
the individual (that's you and me, folks) to make a difference.
This is the easiest and lowest cost way
to convert your car to run on (relatively) free energy. Now with existing
technology, anyone can stand up and make a difference by reducing the local
automotive pollution, eliminate ga$oline expen$e$, help restore our atmosphere,
and breathe a little easier. You will be making use of your entire existing
system, except the fuel tank and catalytic converter.
Know the Truth and set yourself FREE. Set
a good example for the World you choose to create. Exercise your own Free
Will. Live cleaner and healthier.
Build and install a low-cost alternative
method for running your vehicle (internal combustion) engine on TAP WATER,
using off-the-shelf components. This is simply an efficient way to convert
ordinary tap water into gaseous Hydrogen and Oxygen, and then burn these
vapours in the engine, instead of that $melly, $tinky, expen$ive 'other
This 'minisystem' runs easily from your
existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into your carburetor
with simple off-the-shelf fittings. You will be installing a plastic water
tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure carb/FI fitting,
and 3 gauges (see Figure 1), and then hooking into your existing carb/FI.
The SIMPLICITY comes from being an 'on-demand'
system requiring no fancy storage, or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal
or throttle and you electrically create more vapour for immediate consumption,
on demand; Lo - Hi Flow Rate as needed from idle - max power. The only
real change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional
petroleum-based fuel. Given, a choice, which way would you choose?
Q: Does it really work?
A: Yes; this is well-established technology
dating back to stainless steel. But be sure to follow these instructions
using the proper mechanical and electrical assembly techniques, as it incorporates
the best qualities of several techniques.
Q: How does it qualify as 'free energy'?
A: If you're paying someone for the water
you use, then it is not strictly 'free'. But, the alternative is to keep
buying into the expen$ive ga$oline and re$ultant hydrocarbon pollution.
Q: ls it Safe?
A: Technically, it is safer than running
on fossil fuel, because you are no longer choking on your own emissions
(health-wise), but in general it is practically as safe as your current
gasoline arrangement. You will be installing a few simple safety devices,
using current automotive standards.
Q: What kind of performance can I expect?
A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapour-only
fuel system will run cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The
mileage performance expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg, depending
on your adjusting skills.
Q: Can I do the modification myself?
A: Why not? If you know someone with basic
mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some of the
construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you may have to
get a mechanic's opinion.
0: What is the environmental impact that
my vehicle will have?
A: It will be producing H20 steam and unburnt
02, hence it will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous
toxins into it. Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of
atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapour in the reaction becomes either steam
or oxygen. You can also expect to be receiving more than casual interest
from those around you.
Q: Is this really a steam engine?
A: No; really. Exceedingly hi temp &
pressure are not used. This is strictly an internal combustion engine (burning
orthohydrogen) with residual steam in the exhaust as a by product.
0. Gasoline as a fuel is NOT NECESSARY; it is
1. ORIGIN - In
the 19th century, the gasoline portion of the refining process, was first
considered to be a 'waste' product of extracting the purified crude oil.
Later on, it was discovered that it could be $old as fuel, instead of just
dumping it back in the hole as had been the tradition.
2. CONSUMPTION RATE
- The gasoline consumption rate for every mass-produced car has been carefully
'designed in' as a market asset. As an indication, simply observe how quickly
and closely ALL the local different gas stations adjust their prices. Even
the hybrid cars which use electric motors still consume a designed amount
of gasoline, and their price tags are prohibitively high.
- There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there
is even more energy in water. The DOE has quoted about 40%, 50 it is probably
much more than that. Most people are unaware that 'internal combustion'
is DEFINED as: a thermo-vapour process; as in 'no liquid in the reaction';
AND most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine, is ACTUALLY
CONSUMED cooked and finally broken down) IN THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER, which
happens AFTER the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this
means that most of the fuel we use in this way, is used only to cool down
the combustion process, rather than using a cleaner and more efficient
means to do so.
- Also sadly, we are told by 'authorities' that some of the many
gasoline additives are in the mix to increase performance; but because
of its current overly-complex molecular structure, the real built-in function
of the gasoline formula is to slow down the combustion so that only so
much is actually consumed in the cylinder, and the liquid balance goes
to the catalytic converter. As a further insult, the additives are also
there to clog and prevent the use of the Pogue-style carburetors, designed
to get 200-300 mpg.
Is the Pope catholic? does the bear poop in the woods? Of course the oil
companies are making a huge profit. It is by design. What do you suppose
the Gulf War was about? Just look at where the crude oil comes from and
where the money is flowing. Rest assured that the oil companies do NOT
want you to know how to make use of this water-fuel technology. They have
been making money on our ignorance, dis-empowerment, and willingness to
follow along in a mindless 'comfort-zone' of toxic waste, suppression,
resentment, and apathy: WHO NEEDS IT?
Let us proceed to set a good example and
do it right, do it clean.
Exceedingly simple. Water is pumped
as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in the chamber. The
electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-SA electrical pulse which breaks 2(H20)
---> 2H2 + 02. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key
and go. You step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes,
and thus more vapour to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapour on demand. You
set the idle -max flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and
you're off to the races.
In the BIG picture, your Free Energy is coming from the tap water,
in an open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power
the engine, and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories;
AND the alternator is efficient enough to run the various electrical loads
(10-20 amps), including the additional low current to run this vapour reaction.
No extra batteries are required.
STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION
Please refer to Figures 1
OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of
0. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure
your current operating temp range (gasoline), for comparison.
1. Build & test the controller to verify
the correct pulse output.
2. Build the reaction chamber & test
it w. the controller (i.e pressure out).
3. Install the tank, controller, chamber,
and pressure fittings.
4. Run engine & Adjust the control circuit
as necessary for best performance.
5. Install the stainless steel valves and
get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
6. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic
without the catalytic converter OR let it rust out and replace the whole
dang thang with stainless steel pipe sections.
YOU WILL NEED
- plastic water tank with pump and level
- control circuit, wiring, connectors, and
- reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
- 3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings
- ceramic surface treatment for cylinders
- stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust
- drill, screwdriver and pliers
- hole cutter
- wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
- DVM and oscilloscope.
Construct as shown in Figure 2. Use a section
of 4" PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a
standard end-cap at the other.
Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads
through the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water
level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet
leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapour pressure. Use
stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective
coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the
seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold
The screw fitting may require soft silicone
sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic
inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get
a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced
literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You WILL
want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode
junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g.
the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap.
This epoxy must be water-proof and be capable
of holding metal to plastic under pressure.
You WILL want to get your chamber level
sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on.
Figures 3 & 4 show a simple circuit
to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse'
signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch
on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is:
The faster you want do go down the road,
the 'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty
cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of
90% MARK 10% SPACE (OFF/ON).
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse
waveform is generated; there are many ways to generate pulses, and the
attached diagrams show a few. Figure 4 gives the NE555-circuit approach
from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be rated
1-5 amps @ I2VDC(in
Go with a plan that works for you or your
friendly neighborhood technoid or mechanic, and go get all the circuit
elements from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us,
including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
DigiKey has better selection, service, and
knowledge; plus they have no minimum order crap. Be sure to use a circuit
board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room for mounting
2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment
will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections
between the socket pins and through-hole discrete components having wire
leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details
of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype testing.
You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy
the cap on.
If you have a throttle position sensor,
you should be able to access the signal from the sensor itself OR from
the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the primary
control (i.e. throttle level pulse width = vapour rate).
If you don't have such a signal available,
you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage
(i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable running to
the carb or Fl. If you make the attachment at the cart/Fl, be sure to use
a POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy
POT; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely
to something sturdy and stationary that will not fall apart when you step
on the gas.
The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST
control the vapour rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). The resistor values at
the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt
swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to
generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse.
The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse
in the 10-250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most
efficient vapour conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each
IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires, to
control the frequency and pulse width.
You can use spare sockets to try out different
discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are spec-compatible
in the circuit, and get the job done.
You crank up the throttle signal and put
more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you
can get 10% duty on the scope (2 - 100 usec on the horizontal time-base).
Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-I 0% DC voltage across the output
transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the
supply current and measure .5 - 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now
verify that you got everything you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your
DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow
line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount miniature
POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give
you a quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation.
You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy
the cap on (see Figures 2 & 4).
Figure 2 also shows that fittings are required
to the carb/FI I. There are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available
for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as
the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built in vents and
making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent
backfire' protection for the reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct
junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without leakage. Your
new 'system' is considered successful and properly adjusted when you get
the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing
the pressure safety valve.
CHT (or EGT)-
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust
gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your
existing gauge is TOO SLOW for this application and will not warn you against
overheating until after you have burnt something.
Make sure that your engine RUNS NO HOTTER
than in the gasoline arrangement. VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum
sensor that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head (make
sure it is REAL CLEAN before you reinstall your spark plug (as this is
also an electrical ground).
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel
ones AND get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated ASAP when you have successfully
converted and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items WILL RUST,
either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make
max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until
it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless
steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be
ea$ier to send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment,
and then simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.
1. Do not discard or remove any of the old
gasoline set up components, e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless
necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to something
that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline
set up completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to
have a backup plan.
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you
get minimum vapour flow at IDLE, and maximum vapour flow at FULL POWER
without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you control how
'lean' your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. 'fatness' at
the optimum pulse frequency).
If you just don't get enough power (at any
throttle setting), it means that you need to (1) change the pulse frequency,
(2) change the gap between the electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger)
electrodes, OR (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always
use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage
and current you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play
around with it some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?
If you get ANY engine knock our loud combustions
(not compensated by adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install
an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional
pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .lsec time base) (see Figure 5).
Here,you will be slowing down the burn rate
just enough so that the vapours burn throughout the power stroke of the
piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct strength
of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil
of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around
the center pipe (but NOT touching either electrode), directly over the
circular 1-5mm gap. You want NO KNOCKING at any power/throttle setting;
smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from the combustion.
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can
without compromising your ability to mount them conveniently near the dash
panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This way, you
can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship.
Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a
bullet-proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
6. If you have to drill a through-hole for
wiring or plumbing through metal, make sure to also install a grommet for
protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure range from
IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi).
your safety-pressure relief-valve to 75 psi and make sure it's rated for
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over
if there is any MALFUNCTION of the system. Your engine will last longest
when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we
are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapour Flow and/or by
making use of the water-vapour cooling technique (see Figure 7). Keep good
mpg performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean;
save some money; clean the air; heal the planet; happy motoring; tell a
friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment; haul ass.
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting
this vapour system through a fuel injector; there may be some details you
will discover on your own as working prototypes progress. For example,
you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapour WITHOUT ANY
water vapour, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a
problem, then you will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating
the injectors. There is always 'replacing the Fl system with a Carb'.
9. If you install the water-vapour system
(for lower operating temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapour/air)
for minimum vapour flow rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle
- max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE an a modestly sufficient
flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe
combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating
plates of +/- electrodes.
11. If you are concerned about the water
freezing in your system, you can (a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and
re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some electric
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your
dream, your freedom, your independence, your truth.
1. Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing
Orthohydrogen and/or Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov
2. Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production
of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961, uspto. gov
3. Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel
From Water', fuelless.com
4. Carl Celia 'A Water-Fuelled Car' Nexus
Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
5. Peter Lindemann 'Where in the World is
All the Free Energy', free-energy.cc
6. George Wiseman 'The Gas-Saver and HyCO
7. C. Michael Holler 'The Dromedary Newsletter'
and 'SuperCarb Techniques'
8. Stephen Chambers 'Prototype Vapor Fuel System', xogen.com
author of this document assumes no liability for the use or misuse if this
information; which is made available as public-domain information, for
the purposes of education, ecology, health, well-being, freedom, liberty,
and pursuit of happiness.
COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All
rights to the use and duplication of these plans are hereby reserved for
the People, in their efforts to heal and restore the environment. Dare
to express your uniqueness and environmental ideals. This technology is
an exercise in responsible self-determination.
was the covering letter I received from the source of this material and
I have no idea of who they are although the postage stamps indicate it
was for the United states of America.
I offer no comment
on material here within displayed but would like to say thanks to the individual
or individuals who supplied me with this material and ask you the web surfer
who sees this page to copy it and pass it around as indicated by letter
The enclosed public domain material is a
Gift from Spirit, for the People, and for the Planet. In this age of global
transition, We are being asked, as a species, to come together in Peace
and Harmony (finally); rather than fight amongst each other in continued
chaos and destruction. Here is where We can simultaneously address the
issues of global healing, pollution, environmental protection, war, oil-economy
politics, and individual empowerment. The time for waiting, watching, and
hoping is over. All Starseed are being asked to step up to the plate and
facilitate the 'Heaven on Earth' that we are here to manifest.
Please load these plans into your websites,
duplicate, distribute widely and freely into the population ASAP. There
is no need to continue creating and breathing the toxic fumes; plus no
more flying bombs, please. It is the shift in our collective Consciousness
that is the primary goal; although the physical manifestation of the free-energy
technologies can only help. When enough people know the choices available
the momentum will increase.
We would suggest that
it is now time to make a conscious choice:
Living from the Mind (Ego)
Economic Stress Fear, Ignorance, and control
Enslavement to corporate Policy conformity
and Anonymity conflict, War, Revenge False Authority and Secrecy Political
Subterfuge and corruption Environmental destruction and 'progress' Toxic
energy and transportation Lies, Greed, and Opportunism centralized control
of all resources Mostly Drudgery
Living from the Heart
compassion, Wisdom, and Independence
Freedom and Individual self-empowerment
Uniqueness and self-expression
Peace, Harmony, Understanding
Sovereignty and Full Disclosure
Responsible Self-determination and Integrity
Environmental restoration and health
clean energy and pollution-free vehicles
Truth, Sharing, and cooperation
Individual and community self-sufficiency
Example: "The People of Afghanistan are
my brothers and sisters, so I will do whatever I can to help them."
Use the Net; use your guidance, imagination,
resources, intuition, creativity, and ingenuity.
Finally: an affordable, dean, free-energy,
intermediate solution for the People.
We will know the Truth, set ourselves Free,
and make a difference.
All information posted on this web site is
the opinion of the author and is provided for educational purposes only.
It is not to be construed as medical advice. Only a licensed medical doctor
can legally offer medical advice in the United States. Consult the healer
of your choice for medical care and advice.