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Don Croft's Cloudbuster Directions

By Don Croft <terminator3@turbonet.com>
http://educate-yourself.org/ct/CBconstructioninfo1feb02.shtml
August, 2001

Carol and I got these specs by dowsing, and they work very, very well, though may not be the last word, if you get my drift.  Let us know at <terminator3@turbonet.com> if you can successfully modify it.  We did increase the absorption of dead/deadly orgone by placing a quartz generator crystal, about 4” high by 2” wide, with a mobius coil attached to it, inside the ring of pipes on top of the base.  When we attached a frequency generator, at 15Hz it greatly increased that and caused the energy to spiral into the pipes, like water draining out of a bathtub.

BUCKET
Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep.  I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine.  I leave the bucket handles on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster.

COPPER PIPES
Six copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting.  For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces.  You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.

CRYSTALS
I glued a double-terminated quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a ¾” section of garden hose, which is glued in turn inside each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe.  I use 'Goop' glue.   I taped around the cap where it joined the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. Gladys Bridges at <gladysbridges@earthlink.net> sells suitable crystals for cloudbusters.

METAL PARTICLES
Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum siding shops are good places to look).  I use aluminum for weight and sanding considerations, but any metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go thru a window screen & slightly bigger ones are okay.  There really is a wide margin of suitability.

PLYWOOD
¾”exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes.  I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2” apart on centers.  A flat, 1 ¼” auger bit makes a suitable hole for each end cap.  Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket—remember to cut a section away to remove it from the bucket.  Cut the holes with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes.  This piece will hold the pipes in position while the first batch of  resin hardens.  I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 3” radius with 1 1/8” holes on a 2” radius circles for the pipe ends.  This keeps the pipes parallel with each other.

RESIN
I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but epoxy also works, as does enviortech resin from eti.com (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat.  Put the base wood template onto that before it hardens. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template.  Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles  until the consistency is still viscous but will flatten when you stop stirring.  Expeditiously move the second template down onto the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket.  Put the top template onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel.

After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside—this is only used during construction. You can finish off putting the resin/meal mixture in now—in two stages if you want—up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket.  Now it’s finished.

Using the Cloudbuster
We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the cloudbuster (many miles).  We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up.  We did eliminate a belt of smog which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.

UFO's
We also severely alarmed the operators of a ufo that was in the vicinity.  It instantaneously shot out into space, where it remained in the same position relative to us, so this configuration apparently only treats the atmosphere. Do be discriminating which ufo’s you aim at, though.  If they are not predatory and you make them mad, they may pay you back by messing with your carburetor or something, as they did to us once.  The really advanced ones are not susceptible to the cloudbuster, as they apparently don’t need a deadly orgone field to operate.  Our take is that all but these use nuclear fusion or some other noxious, old-paradigm energy source.  It’s open season on the B Sirian craft and other predatory ones, as far as we’re concerned.  They can’t hurt you, by the way, if you aren’t afraid of them.

Chemtrails
Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently.  It may take a few days for your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the couldbuster will also disperse, but more slowly.  The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate,  but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes. The evil intent of the UN is most apparent in the fact that Lucis Trust (formerly Lucifer Trust) publishes all of its official literature and guides its philosophy.  Only this belief system could condone genocide.

Holy Hand Grenades (HHg's)
Environmental Harmonizers make the cloudbuster work better and vice versa. We experimented with 6' extensions to the pipes to increase the range.  It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles.  We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base while we were in the Keys by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week.  A HHg is still the best thing for neutralizing the dead orgone around a nuke plant.  This field normally extends up to 40 miles in every direction but putting a HHg on the ground limits the radius of the field to wherever the HHg is. I made a wooden stand which folds up, but found it un-necessary in most cases, as you can simply prop it in any position you want without being concerned about what touches the pipes. Leaving the second template on can be useful since you can attach legs in a bipod fashion to this without distorting the parallel feature of the pipes.

Touching the Pipes
Even when it was drawing in the worst atmospheric orgone, I could touch the pipes, though sometimes it hurt a little.  Just putting my hands on the base restored my hand’s energy in a few seconds. Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them.  Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot.

WARNING—if you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently.

 



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All information posted on this web site is the opinion of the author and is provided for educational purposes only. It is not to be construed as medical advice. Only a licensed medical doctor can legally offer medical advice in the United States. Consult the healer of your choice for medical care and advice.